Door Replacement Cost Calculator

How to Estimate Door Replacement Costs

Door replacement is one of the most impactful home improvements you can make on a per-dollar basis. New exterior doors improve curb appeal, energy efficiency, security, and weatherproofing all at once — and according to Remodeling Magazine's annual Cost vs. Value Report, garage door replacement and entry door replacement consistently deliver among the highest return on investment of any home improvement project. Yet door replacement costs vary widely depending on door type, material, installation complexity, and hardware choices.

A straightforward interior hollow-core door swap runs $150–$400 installed. A fiberglass exterior entry door pre-hung installation costs $800–$2,000. A pair of French doors in solid wood can reach $5,000 or more. Understanding which variables drive cost — and how installation type multiplies your material cost — is essential to setting a realistic budget before you contact contractors.

This calculator uses 2024 US national average installed cost ranges across seven door types, six materials, and three installation methods. Enter your project details below to get a low, mid, and high estimate per door and for the full project — including hardware upgrades and a contingency buffer for unexpected frame or structural issues.

Door Types Compared: Costs, Uses, and Selection Guide

The type of door you are replacing is the first and most important cost variable. Each door type serves a distinct function, operates differently, and has a characteristic cost range regardless of material selection.

Exterior Entry Doors ($500–$3,500 installed)

The exterior entry door — your front door — is the most visible and security-critical door in the home. It is the first thing visitors see, the primary point of entry for potential intruders, and a significant source of heat gain and loss if poorly insulated. Entry door replacement is consistently one of the top ten highest-ROI home improvements nationally. Material selection (steel, fiberglass, or wood) is the primary cost driver. Steel doors start around $500 installed; fiberglass doors run $800–$2,000; solid wood doors can reach $3,500 or more. All costs include standard installation labor.

Interior Doors ($150–$800 installed)

Interior doors are the workhorses of the home. Most residential interior doors are hollow-core wood, which are lightweight and inexpensive ($150–$400 installed). Solid-core interior doors ($250–$700 installed) provide better sound isolation and a more substantial feel — they are standard in upscale homes and highly recommended for bedrooms and home offices. Barn doors and pocket doors ($300–$800 installed) offer space savings where swing clearance is limited, but require additional hardware and framing preparation.

Storm Doors ($200–$700 installed)

Storm doors are installed in front of exterior entry doors to add an additional layer of weather protection and insulation, improve ventilation with screened panels, and protect the primary door from weather damage. Aluminum storm doors run $200–$500 installed; fiberglass storm doors cost $300–$700. Storm doors are one of the most cost-effective energy efficiency upgrades for exterior doors that receive heavy weather exposure. They extend the life of the primary entry door by protecting it from direct UV exposure and precipitation.

Sliding Patio Doors ($700–$2,000 installed)

Sliding patio doors provide the largest glass area of any residential door type, maximizing natural light and outdoor views. They are the standard door type for deck and patio access in most US homes built since the 1970s. Vinyl sliding doors ($800–$2,000 installed) offer excellent energy performance, low maintenance, and are the most popular choice. Aluminum sliding doors ($700–$1,800) are more durable structurally but conduct more heat and cold without a thermal break. Energy performance matters greatly with sliding patio doors due to their large glass area — look for double-pane glass with low-e coating and insulated frames.

French Doors ($1,500–$6,000 installed)

French doors are hinged pairs that open from the center, offering a classic aesthetic and a wide, unobstructed opening. They are popular for patio access, master bedroom entries, and home office entries. French doors cost more than other door types due to their double-door construction, larger opening requirements, and more complex installation. Wood French doors run $1,500–$5,000 installed; fiberglass French doors cost $2,000–$6,000. Because French doors have more glass than a standard entry door, energy performance (double-pane low-e glass) is important for climate control.

Garage Doors ($800–$3,000 installed)

Garage door replacement is the single highest-ROI home improvement project nationally, returning over 100% of cost at resale for the fifth consecutive year according to Remodeling Magazine's 2024 Cost vs. Value Report. A standard single-car steel garage door runs $800–$1,600 installed. Wood garage doors cost $1,200–$3,000 but require regular painting or staining. Adding insulation (R-13 or higher) improves energy performance and sound reduction in attached garages and typically costs only $100–$200 more than uninsulated models.

Barn and Pocket Doors ($250–$1,000 installed)

Barn doors slide on exposed overhead tracks and have become a popular design element in modern farmhouse and transitional interiors. Pocket doors slide into a wall cavity and disappear when open — ideal for tight spaces. Both types eliminate the swing clearance required by traditional hinged doors. Hollow-core barn/pocket doors run $250–$600 installed; solid-core versions cost $400–$1,000. Pocket door installation is more complex because it requires building a wall cavity, which can add cost if the wall needs structural modification.

Exterior vs. Interior Doors: Why the Difference Matters

Exterior and interior doors serve fundamentally different functions and face entirely different performance demands. Understanding these differences helps you prioritize your budget appropriately.

Exterior doors must withstand weather, temperature extremes, UV exposure, attempted forced entry, and ongoing use by the entire household. They are the primary thermal and security barrier between your conditioned interior space and the outside world. Performance specifications that matter for exterior doors — U-factor for insulation, air leakage rating, impact resistance, and security ratings — do not apply at all to interior doors.

Interior doors primarily serve privacy and acoustic separation functions. Their performance requirements are simpler: they must operate smoothly, latch securely, provide appropriate privacy, and complement the interior aesthetic. Sound transmission class (STC) rating is the primary performance metric for interior doors — hollow-core doors have an STC of about 26–28, while solid-core doors achieve STC 32–35, a meaningful difference for bedrooms and home offices.

Budget accordingly: exterior doors warrant premium material and installation investments that will pay dividends in energy savings, security, and longevity for 20–30 years. Interior doors are appropriate for value optimization — hollow-core doors perform acceptably in closets, laundry rooms, and utility spaces, while solid-core doors are worth the upgrade for bedrooms, bathrooms, and home offices where acoustic privacy matters.

Energy Efficiency Ratings: U-Factor, Air Leakage, and ENERGY STAR

Exterior doors are a significant source of heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer. Understanding door energy performance ratings helps you make selections that reduce utility bills and qualify for energy tax credits.

U-Factor

U-factor measures the rate of heat transfer through a door — lower is better. ENERGY STAR requirements for exterior doors vary by US climate zone but generally require U-factor ≤ 0.17 to 0.21 for most climates. Fiberglass doors typically achieve U-factors of 0.17–0.20 — the best performance of the common door materials. Steel insulated doors run 0.20–0.30. Solid wood doors vary widely from 0.25 to 0.50 depending on core construction and glazing. Any door with glass panels (sidelites, lites, or French door glass panels) has a higher overall U-factor because glass is a much poorer insulator than an insulated door panel.

Air Leakage

Air leakage around door perimeters (between the door and frame) is often a larger energy loss than conduction through the door panel itself. ENERGY STAR certified doors must meet air leakage requirements of ≤ 0.3 cfm/sq ft. Weatherstripping quality and condition is the primary determinant of air leakage — even the most energy-efficient door panel loses its advantage with worn or missing weatherstripping. Replace all weatherstripping and door threshold seals whenever replacing an exterior door.

Federal Tax Credits for Efficient Doors

The Inflation Reduction Act (IRA) provides a 30% tax credit (up to $500 per year through 2032) for exterior doors meeting ENERGY STAR requirements. To qualify, the door must be ENERGY STAR certified for your climate zone. Keep installation receipts and the ENERGY STAR certification documentation for your tax filing. This credit can meaningfully offset the cost premium for fiberglass doors over steel.

Fiberglass vs. Steel vs. Wood: Full Material Comparison

Material selection is the second-largest cost variable after door type. Each material has distinct performance characteristics that affect long-term cost of ownership beyond the initial purchase price.

Fiberglass Doors: Best Overall Performance

Fiberglass exterior doors cost $800–$2,000 installed and offer the best balance of performance characteristics for most climates. Key advantages: superior insulation (R-5 to R-6 vs. R-2 to R-4 for steel); no rust, rot, or corrosion in humid, coastal, or rainy climates; excellent impact resistance (does not dent like steel); can be stained to mimic wood grain appearance; low maintenance (periodic cleaning only); and dimensional stability in temperature extremes. The primary disadvantage is cost — fiberglass doors carry a 60–120% premium over comparable steel doors. For most homeowners staying in their homes for 10+ years, fiberglass is the best long-term investment.

Steel Doors: Best Value for Most Applications

Steel exterior doors cost $500–$900 installed and offer excellent security, good energy performance, and lower initial cost than fiberglass. Properly maintained steel doors are highly durable and fire-resistant. The primary concerns with steel: susceptibility to denting from impacts; rust potential if the finish is damaged and left unrepaired; and higher thermal conductivity (the metal frame conducts cold/heat without a thermal break). Steel doors are the best choice for garages, secondary exterior doors, and homeowners in dry climates who are cost-conscious. They require periodic touch-up painting to prevent rust.

Solid Wood Doors: Best Aesthetics, Highest Maintenance

Solid wood exterior doors cost $1,000–$3,500 installed and are the traditional choice for high-end homes and historic properties where authentic wood appearance is a priority. Wood doors offer excellent aesthetics and can be custom crafted in any design. The significant disadvantages: wood expands and contracts with humidity and temperature changes, potentially causing sticking, gaps, and alignment issues; wood requires regular painting or staining (every 2–5 years for exterior applications) to prevent moisture damage; and wood is more susceptible to rot and insect damage in wet climates. Solid wood doors are appropriate when appearance is the primary priority and the homeowner is committed to ongoing maintenance.

Hollow-Core Wood: Interior Applications Only

Hollow-core wood doors ($150–$400 installed) are the standard for interior residential applications. They consist of a thin wood veneer over a honeycomb cardboard or hollow core. They are lightweight, easy to install, and cost-effective. They are not appropriate for exterior applications due to minimal weathering resistance and no meaningful insulation value. Solid-core interior doors ($250–$700) replace the hollow core with a solid wood, particleboard, or MDF core for better sound isolation and a more substantial feel.

Slab vs. Pre-Hung vs. Frame Replacement: Installation Type Guide

Installation type is the most underappreciated cost variable in door replacement. The same door slab can have dramatically different installed costs depending on the installation method required.

Door Slab Only (Existing Frame Reused)

A door slab installation replaces only the door panel, reusing the existing frame, hinges, and hardware. This is the lowest-cost installation type and is appropriate when the existing frame is in excellent condition, plumb and square, and dimensionally compatible with the new door. Slab installation is most common for interior door replacements and situations where a homeowner is upgrading the door panel only (e.g., replacing a hollow-core interior door with a solid-core version in the same frame). Slab installation costs represent the base cost in this calculator — all other installation types are multiples of this baseline.

Pre-Hung Door (New Frame Included)

A pre-hung door is a door slab already mounted on hinges within a new frame, sold as a complete unit. Pre-hung installation removes and discards the old frame and installs the new door-and-frame assembly in the existing rough opening. Pre-hung installation costs approximately 25% more than slab-only due to the additional framing and fitting labor. Pre-hung is the standard for exterior door replacements and is strongly recommended when: the existing frame shows any signs of rot, damage, or water infiltration; the existing frame is out of square or plumb; you are upgrading to an energy-efficient door with a properly insulated frame; or the door swing direction is being changed.

With Frame Replacement (Full Opening Rework)

Frame replacement involves removing the door, existing frame, interior and exterior trim, and portions of the surrounding wall to expose the rough opening. This allows full inspection and repair of the rough framing, replacement of any rotted or damaged structural members, and installation of a new pre-hung door unit. Frame replacement is the highest-cost installation type — approximately 40% more than slab-only installation — but it is necessary when there is significant rot or water damage in the surrounding framing, when the rough opening size needs to change, or when the home has experienced water intrusion around the door opening that may have damaged hidden framing members.

Door Security Ratings and Smart Lock Integration

Security performance varies significantly across door types and hardware selections. Understanding security standards helps you make informed choices for exterior door replacements.

ANSI/BHMA Door Hardware Security Grades

The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association (BHMA) rate door hardware on a Grade 1–3 scale. Grade 1 is the highest commercial-grade standard, requiring hardware to withstand 250,000 operational cycles and higher force tolerances. Grade 2 is the standard residential grade (most hardware sold at home improvement stores). Grade 3 is entry-level residential. For exterior entry doors, ANSI Grade 1 deadbolts and handles are strongly recommended — the price premium over Grade 2 hardware is typically only $50–$150 per door but offers meaningfully better resistance to forced entry.

Multi-Point Locking Systems

Multi-point locking systems engage the door at three or more points along the door height simultaneously (typically top, middle, and bottom) rather than at a single deadbolt point. This dramatically increases forced-entry resistance because the door cannot be kicked in at a single point. Multi-point locks add $200–$500 to door hardware cost but are standard on high-security and European-style doors. They are particularly recommended for homes in areas with elevated security concerns, for French doors (which are vulnerable at the center meeting point), and for doors frequently left without a deadbolt engaged.

Smart Locks

Smart locks replace or augment traditional keyed entry with electronic access control — keypad codes, smartphone app control, voice assistant integration, and automatic locking. Smart lock costs range from $150–$600 depending on features. Key considerations: most smart locks are designed for standard deadbolt preparation (2-1/8" bore hole) and are compatible with existing door preparation; battery life varies from 6 months to 2 years depending on usage frequency and lock type; Wi-Fi-connected smart locks offer remote access but consume more battery. If you are replacing exterior doors, this is the ideal time to specify a door with smart lock preparation (keypad-ready deadbolt prep) even if you are not installing a smart lock immediately.

Curb Appeal ROI: Entry Door and Garage Door Replacement

Door replacement, particularly exterior entry door and garage door replacement, delivers exceptional return on investment at resale precisely because doors are among the most visible elements of a home's exterior. Buyers form first impressions within seconds of pulling up to a property — and the front door and garage door together dominate that first impression for the majority of US homes.

According to the 2024 Remodeling Magazine Cost vs. Value Report, garage door replacement returns an average of 107% of project cost at resale — meaning the average homeowner recoups more than they spend. This makes it the single highest-ROI project in the entire report. Garage door replacement at mid-range quality (steel insulated door with opener) averages approximately $4,500 nationally and returns approximately $4,800 in added home value.

Steel entry door replacement returns approximately 80–90% of cost nationally. A new fiberglass front door returns slightly less in pure dollar terms but delivers better long-term energy savings and maintenance cost reduction. Beyond direct financial ROI, a distinctive front door in a bold color (navy, red, forest green, or matte black are all popular) creates a memorable impression that can meaningfully affect buyer interest and offer prices in competitive markets.

Interior door replacement, by contrast, does not directly contribute to resale value in most markets. However, cohesive interior door hardware (matching finishes throughout the home) and solid-core doors in master bedrooms and baths signal quality construction to discerning buyers.

Weatherstripping and Thresholds: The Overlooked Energy Detail

Even a premium fiberglass door with an excellent U-factor can underperform its rated specifications if the weatherstripping and door threshold are worn, missing, or improperly installed. Air leakage around door perimeters often contributes more to energy loss than conduction through the door panel itself.

Weatherstripping Types

The most common weatherstripping types are: compression seals (foam or rubber strips that compress when the door closes, providing an airtight seal); V-strip or tension seal (metal or plastic strips that create a tension seal along the door sides and top); and bulb seal (a hollow rubber or vinyl tube that compresses against the door stop). For exterior doors, compression or bulb seal weatherstripping provides the best air seal when properly installed and maintained. Quality weatherstripping costs $15–$40 per door for materials; installation is typically included when door replacement is done professionally.

Door Thresholds and Sweeps

The door threshold is the horizontal component at the bottom of the door opening that seals against the door sweep (the strip attached to the bottom of the door). A worn or improperly adjusted threshold-sweep combination is the most common source of drafts in exterior doors. Automatic door sweeps that retract when the door opens and drop to seal when closed provide the best combination of sealing performance and floor protection. Threshold replacement costs $50–$150 in materials and should always be included when replacing an exterior door.

Maintenance Schedule

Even new weatherstripping and thresholds wear over time. Inspect exterior door seals annually (best done on a cold, windy day — hold a candle near the door perimeter to detect air movement). Replace weatherstripping every 3–7 years depending on climate and door usage frequency. This simple maintenance step costs $15–$40 in materials and preserves the energy performance and weather protection of your exterior door investment.

Common Door Replacement Mistakes to Avoid

• Reusing a warped or rotted frame with a new door slab. A new door on a bad frame will stick, gap, and allow air and water infiltration. Always inspect the frame carefully — probe it with a screwdriver to check for soft spots indicating rot. If the frame is compromised, upgrade to pre-hung installation.
• Choosing the wrong material for the climate. Steel doors in coastal or high-humidity climates rust and degrade rapidly without diligent maintenance. Fiberglass is the right choice for Pacific Northwest, Gulf Coast, and Florida climates. Wood doors in wet climates require intensive ongoing maintenance commitments.
• Skipping weatherstripping and threshold replacement. Weatherstripping is inexpensive ($15–$40 per door) and directly affects energy performance and weather protection. Never skip it when replacing an exterior door.
• Installing a non-fire-rated door between the garage and living space. Building codes in most US jurisdictions require a 20-minute fire-rated door on the opening between an attached garage and living space. This is a safety requirement, not optional. Verify with your local building department before purchasing a garage-to-interior door.
• Not measuring the rough opening before ordering. Non-standard rough opening sizes (typically anything other than 2/0, 2/4, 2/6, 2/8, 3/0, or 3/6 widths at standard 6/8 or 8/0 heights) require custom or special-order doors at significant cost premiums. Measure width, height, and depth before purchasing any replacement door.
• Forgetting painting and finishing costs. New wood and steel doors require painting. Fiberglass doors require painting or staining. Professional door finishing adds $100–$300 per door and should be included in your project budget.

Pro Tips for Door Replacement Projects

• Replace all weatherstripping and threshold seals at the same time. The marginal cost when the door is already off is negligible compared to replacing seals separately later.
• Upgrade to Grade 1 ANSI hardware on all exterior doors. The security and durability improvement over standard Grade 2 hardware costs $50–$150 more per door and lasts significantly longer.
• Consider a new front door color for maximum curb appeal impact. A bold front door color (navy, forest green, deep red, matte black) significantly improves street presence and is one of the easiest, lowest-cost ways to differentiate your home's exterior. A $50 gallon of quality exterior paint applied to a new fiberglass door during installation adds zero extra labor cost.
• For garage doors, add insulation (R-13 or higher). In attached garages, insulated garage doors improve both energy performance and sound reduction at minimal additional cost ($100–$200 premium over uninsulated). Insulated garage doors also operate more quietly and with less vibration.
• Specify ENERGY STAR certified doors to qualify for the 30% federal tax credit. The IRA provides up to $500/year in tax credits for qualifying exterior doors through 2032. Keep your purchase receipt and the ENERGY STAR certification paperwork.
• Get three bids and compare installation scope, not just price. Two contractors quoting the same door can have very different scopes — one may include frame inspection and weatherstripping, the other may not. Compare bids line by line for what is and is not included.